A Guide to Buscalan and Getting Inked by Apo Fang-Od

You’ve probably come across the name Whang-Od (native: Fang-Od) by now. Well, the 95-year-old Kalinga traditional tattoo artist is quite a celebrity.

Local and international media have reported about her unconventional method of tattooing, travel bloggers introduced her to netizens, and Filipinos and foreigners alike seek her just to get inked with the use of soot and thorns, instead of today’s high-tech tattoo machines.

If you’re a true daredevil who’s ready to take on the challenge of getting a fatek (tattoo) from Apo Fang-Od, this post might be able to give some answers to the questions bubbling in your head.

***Just a little reminder, though, this adventure is not for the faint-hearted.

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Where will I find Apo Whang-Od?

Apo Whang-Od’s ancestral domain lies in the Cordillera mountains, and she lives in a remote village called Buscalan. She’s part of the Butbut tribe.

How do I get to Buscalan?

Assuming you’re coming from Manila, take a Tabuk-bound bus. Victory Liner-Kamias has nightly trips to Tabuk. One leaves at 7:45 PM (deluxe: P710.00 – this was the trip we took), while the other (regular air-conditioned) leaves at around 9 PM.

The trip takes 9-13 hours, so you’ll arrive at Tabuk at around 5 AM on the average. Step down at the stop in front of St. William’s Cathedral.

Now, take a Bontoc-bound bus or jeepney at Dangwa Station. First few trips arrive at 6:30-7:00 AM. We took the bus (P130.00).The ride usually takes 3 hours. Feeling more adventurous? Ride on top of the jeepney or bus!

Step down at Barangay Bugnay, Tinglayan – a village at the foot of Buscalan. This is where your 2-hour hike begins.

There’s a trail that leads to Buscalan, and all you have to do is follow it. Locals also pass by often, so if you can chance upon one, you can ask them to accompany you, or you could simply follow them. But get this, they walk really fast!

***Fare prices indicated are as of September 2014.

Can I hire a guide?

It would be great if you could hire a local guide, especially if you don’t speak the Kalinga dialect. I highly recommend Francis Pa-In. He’s a registered tour guide, who speaks English and Tagalog, and has been accompanying tourists for over 20 years now. You can reach him through his mobile: +639157690843

From and until what time does Apo work?

As soon as the sun rises and until it sets.

How do I pick a design?

In Buscalan, there are two books written by anthropologists who studied the Kalinga tattoo, which contain images of the designs with elaborate descriptions. OR, you can pick a pattern on Apo’s skin, and that’s what she’ll ink on you. The most famous design people request for is the centipede, which gives the wearer guide and protection.

Can I have my own design inked on me?

Sure, you can! But our guide told us that there was this American tourist who brought her own design and was trying to take control over everything. Whang-Od got really annoyed and didn’t give her a tattoo. Always remember to be polite and patient.

Does getting a fatek hurt?

It hurts, yes, especially when I started to feel the thorn hitting my wrist bones. But, overall, I wouldn’t say it hurt so much. Probably because my fatek is just a small one and because my adrenaline was on an overdrive when I got my tattoo (I hiked for over two hours and was way too excited to get inked). Also, I believe that the pain highly depends on the person’s tolerance. There have been people who have fainted during the session, and Apo Fang-Od told them to just return some other time. 

Will it bleed?

There will be blood. (Oooh, a movie reference!)

What are the tools used by Apo to ink skins?

Pine ashes mixed with spring water – ink

Straw – used to draw the pattern on your skin

Pomelo thorn – needle

Soft wooden stick (not sure if it’s a bamboo stick) – used to hold the thorn

Hard wooden stick – used to hit the other stick holding the needle

Weapon of choice

Are they hygienic?

Let’s just say they’re organic. Haha!

How much do I pay for a fatek?

The tattoos don’t have fixed prices, and Apo will gladly take anything you give her. For my tiny tattoo, I paid her P500.00, plus beaded bracelets and boxes of matches. I also paid Grace P250.00, plus a box of chocolates.

Can I stay the night in Buscalan?

Yes! It would also be a great way to sneak a peek into the humble lives of the But-but tribe. You can stay at Apo’s house or in Grace’s room. We stayed at the latter, and it was a great choice, because Grace’s room has this terrace which gave us a spectacular and boundless view of the Cordillera Mountains. Your host will also provide you with food. I’m telling you it wouldn’t be much of a feast, but your heart will melt in their kindness.

How much do I pay for accommodations?

Like getting a tattoo, the accommodation doesn’t have a fixed price. So, what we did was pay P800.00 (P200.00 per head), and joined Grace’s family for breakfast. We offered them some of the food we brought.

Aside from getting a fatek, what else should I try while I’m in Buscalan?

THEIR COFFEE!!! God, you gotta try their coffee! It’s the best! You can also help the tribe by buying some packs of coffee and/or knives. Buscalan boasts of blacksmiths, too.

Now, how do I get back to Manila?

Hike back to Bugnay early in the morning. At the turning point, you can rent a motorcycle (P70.00 per head) to cut your travel time. Take a bus or jeepney back to Tabuk (P140.00). And finally, take a bus back to Manila. There are three trips daily. One leaves at 4:00 PM. The second one leaves at 4:30 PM. And, the last one leaves at 5:00 PM.

Some more notes:

-People in Buscalan – young and old – love sweets! Bring some (if not loads of) candies!

-Someone I was able to get in touch with before my trip also suggested that I bring pencils for the kids. Yes, they study and there are schools nearby.

-Bring matches! They still use firewood when they cook. Say “Isopoyo?” as you hand them out.

-There’s electricity in Buscalan, but don’t expect mobile reception.

-No matter how tired, or hungry, or tired (hey, didn’t I just say that?) you are, never forget to enjoy your trip!

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Other posts related to Kalinga and getting inked by Whang-Od on this blog:
My Story: Braver In Buscalan
Random Photos: Captured in Kalinga: My Adventure in Photos
Official Entry to the Special Projects Category of the Philippine Journalism Research Conference 2015: The Rhythm of Thorns

♥Andz